Reflections on Salkantay

Our Salkantay "deep trek" north of Cusco was so excellent, it deserves another post. Char and I keep talking about how much fun it was and how we miss our days on the trail. Like any extended backpacking trip, it is our companions that we will miss most.

At least 3 times a day we miss Loriano, our trip Chef. It was quite surreal to arrive to camp to an already prepared piping hot meal. Such a feast always began with a delicious soup and usually included two of our favorite staples: rice and potatoes. We are missing those tent dinners these days, although I have not eaten anything but fresh trout since we arrived in the vicinity of Lake Titicaca-grilled, stuffed, fried, or de diablo, trout is delicious no matter how they serve it.

Then there is Esteban, the best muleteer in the Andes. Not only was he kinder and more gentle to the mules than other muleteers on the trail, but he seemed to have a deep connection with his animals (trekking companies here hire a muleteer and his mules). Esteban constantly was working hard but always took time to smile and say "hola amigo." One of our best camping spots was in Esteban's yard. The most beautiful yard on the trail.

Our fellow trekkers were a friendly and comical group. Kason and Melissa, hailing from Toronto Canada, were a fun loving pair that kept us laughing all week. They really pushed themselves on this trip and it was fun to see them succeed. Melissa is a med student in Toronto and while Kason is in finance, we discovered his real calling is mule riding. Then there was Ikuko, a Yale School of Forestry grad from Japan now working at the World Bank in DC. Her enthusiasm and wonder along the trail were such a great contribution.

Last but not least, we will miss our fearless guide Milthon (pronounced Milton...as in my least favorite economist). A born leader and a real character, Milthon got a kick out of our group. He usually hiked ahead with Char and I so we really got to know him well. He was so curious about married life and seems to be headed that way soon...but he'll have to give up the breakfast in bed he gets from his mother when he's in Cusco! Milton has been leading trips for 5-7 years and spends most of the nights each year on the trail, but still considers himself (and dresses like) a city boy. We began to call him El Jefe like the campesinos and muleteers on the trail do. The best part about our leader though was that he loved to party at night. His highlight I think was our night back in Cusco when we went out with him to the clubs. I introduced him to tequila shots (uno, dos, tres) and eventually he and Charlotte were tearing it up on the dance floor! We had a bittersweet departure but may soon meet again if he comes to visit us in Santa Cruz.

Great people. Great trip. And now on to Bolivia!